The Bronze-age of watchmaking: 5 bronze watches we’re in love with

In the recent years, we’ve seen bronze make a comeback in wristwatches—being used by the top Swiss watchmakers like Oris, TAG Heuer, Rolex, Mont Blanc, and more. An alloy of two metals: typically, copper and tin, bronze is a particularly known for its unique aging process.

 Historically, it has been used in many ways—from minting, to architecture, and art. It is also used in the seafaring world such as in propellers and the like for its resistance to corrosion. It can also be found on diver’s watches for this purpose. But being exposed to saltwater, for example, can turn the bronze into different shades as it oxidizes and forms a layer over the metal—generally called a patina.  

While it may not be for everyone, this unique trait of bronze is much coveted by some collectors. Turning anywhere from a bright green to a rich chocolate brown, depending on the composition and its exposure to air, moisture, and other elements. Perhaps, one of the most famous examples of a patina is the Statue of Liberty. Coated with a sheet of copper over iron casting, its now bright green color used to be a reddish-brown shade. By nature, it may take up to hundreds of years to achieve such a patina but this can also be ‘rushed’ by exposing the metal to certain chemicals or environments.    

Patinas hold a certain allure as it gives the piece a look of aged elegance, telling the story of the watch and its wearer—each one not quite the same. If you’re not a fan of the patina, you can always opt to have it coated in a clear lacquer to preserve the natural shine and color of the bronze.

Here are our five bronze favorites:

1. TAG Heuer Autavia Calibre 15 Chronometer

The Autavia is one of the pillars of TAG Heuer. It propelled the brand through its golden years and was immensely popular with both racers and aviators. (thus: automotive + aviation). While it ceased production back in 1985, it was reintroduced at Baselworld in 2019 and 2017 as its own collection with seven references and again earlier this year, TAG Heuer introduced the Autavia in Bronze as a new stand-alone collection that boasts the versatility, ruggedness, and reliability that characterized the original Autavia from 1960.

Powered by the COSC-certified automatic-winding Calibre 5, the 42 mm timepiece features a fumé green or brown dial with a bidirectional rotating ceramic bezel in black or brown, respectively. The brown model is presented on a brown leather strap, while the green model features a khaki-coloured leather strap. A tyre and propeller have been etched into the titanium caseback as a nod to the collection’s rich heritage and the Autavia’s origin.

2. Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Bronze/ 80^th Anniversary Edition

The Big Crown is cast in solid bronze with the exception of its caseback which is in stainless steel and mineral glass and has a 40mm case. You can find the distinctive red marking of the Oris 754 movement that powers the Big Crown through the mineral glass window. Aesthetically, the Big Crown scores top points. The 80^th anniversary edition’s dial is colored a striking matte hunter green which goes beautifully with the warm, burnished tones of the bronze casing.  On the other hand, the Big Crown Pointer Date Series’ Bronze model has a caramel-brown dial that when paired with the bronze, takes on a warm—almost like desert dunes on sunset—finish. It is a straightforward piece, featuring handsomely curved lugs, fluted bezels, and a sustainably sourced brown leather strap fitted with a bronze buckle.  

3. Oris Carl Brashear Chronograph Limited Edition

Created to pay tribute to Carl Brashear, the first African-American to become a US Navy Diver, this timepiece is based of the Diver’s Sixty-Five but features a chronograph—a first in the series.

The 43mm case, along with the crown and chronograph push pieces are cast in solid bronze, with the exception of its case back, which is in stainless steel and engraved with a vintage diving helmet. Encircled is are words fitting for this timepiece: “It’s not a sin to get knocked down. It’s a sin to stay down.” Its dial is a matte deep navy blue that is accented by cream and gold details in the indexes and hands. Inside is a self-winding Sellita 510 movement that Oris calls the Caliber 771. It is fitted to a simple brown leather strap. 

4. Tudor Black Bay Bronze

With a first release back in 2016, the Black Bay Bronze was reintroduced in last year’s Baselworld featuring a different color scheme. The Black Bay Bronze model features a dial inspired by the Tudor divers’ watches produced in the 1950’s. The 2016 model featured a chocolate brown dial while the 2019 Black Bay Bronze has a slate grey dial. The stark grey contrasts beautifully against the polished bronze.

Inspired by the sea, this 43 mm diver’s watch is powered by a Manufacture Calibre MT5601 with a 70-hour power reserve. It is complemented by a slate-grey woven jacquard strap or an aged black leather strap.

5. Montblanc 1858 Automatic Chronograph Limited Edition

Three new bronze versions have joined the Montblanc 1858 Collection—a Montblanc 1858 Chronometer Tachymeter Limited Edition 100, a Montblanc 1858 Automatic Dual Time, and a Montblanc 1858 Automatic timepiece.

The 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Limited Edition showcases a vintage style—from the design of the case, to the movement, strap and details on the dial. The timepiece comes with a retro-vintage champagne dial that has a sunray finishing to match the bronze color of the case.

This limited edition is housed in a 44mm full satinated bronze case with a bronze colored titanium case back and polished bezel for increased depth. At the heart of the timepiece lies a traditional manual monopusher chronograph, the Minerva MB M16.29, with a column wheel mechanism, horizontal coupling, chronograph bridge in a “V” shape, a large screwed balance wheel with a frequency of 18,000 semi oscillations per hour and a power reserve of 50 hours.  It is fitted on a cognac alligator leather strap with satinated bronze plated buckles.