TUDOR is introducing an additional model to the Black Bay line, the Black Bay 58 GMT. This entirely new model is evocative of an era when the novelty of jet-setting across time zones was matched by glamorous and elegant style. It is fitted with TUDOR’s new mid-size GMT Manufacture Calibre paired with warm hues of burgundy, black, and gilt on the bezel. The universally appealing case of the Black Bay 58 has become the model’s calling card, and now it comes in GMT form.
The Black Bay 58 is named after the year in which the first TUDOR divers’ watch waterproof to 200 meters, the reference 7924, dubbed the “Big Crown”, was introduced. Among other aesthetic allusions to this famous historic watch, this model has a 39mm diameter case, in keeping with the characteristic proportions of the 1950s. The watch is the perfect match for a GMT function, and with the Black Bay 58 GMT, the jet-setter’s ultimate function comes with a touch of mid-century elegance. The bezel is burgundy and black with a gilt 24-hour scale, keeping with the general design language of the Black Bay line. The design is reminiscent of a time when TUDOR divers’ watches were first being made and jet planes were moving through times zones and delivering interlopers to destinations they could only dream of, faster than ever before. Finishing gilt touches have been applied to the hour markers, hands, and hour markers of the bicolor bezel. Another fan-favorite touch that remains on the Black Bay 58 GMT is the winding crown, which bears the TUDOR rose logo in relief.
Tudor quality
With the introduction of this brand-new Black Bay 58 GMT, TUDOR has successfully submitted yet another model for tests to obtain Master Chronometer certification. This is part of a constant bid to improve the quality of its products and another step towards a future where the entire TUDOR collection will be Master Chronometer certified. This certification, offered by a Swiss government body, METAS, requires a substantial number of changes to a regular TUDOR Manufacture Calibre and comes as an independent confirmation of the exceptional quality of the TUDOR watches.
Comprehensive independent certification and high standards
METAS Master Chronometer certification is comprehensive and covers the main functional characteristics of a watch including precision, resistance to magnetic fields, waterproofness and power reserve. Its standards are incredibly high, starting with precision. In order to qualify, a watch must be able to function within a 5-second range of variation each day (0/+5), that is to say 5 seconds less than the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) (-4/+6) carried out on a single movement and a second less than TUDOR’s internal standard (-2/+4), which is applied to the brand’s models with a Manufacture Calibre. The certification also guarantees the timekeeping accuracy of a watch subjected to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss. Finally, it also guarantees the waterproofness claimed by the manufacturer as well as the power reserve. It should also be noted that two prerequisites are necessary before the certification can be obtained: Swiss manufacturing must conform with the criteria of Swiss Made, and the movement must be certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
Criteria and tests for Master Chronometer certification by METAS
All the tests and prerequisites leading to the Master Chronometer certification, which the Black Bay has achieved, are summarized below:
- Swiss Made
- Certification by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC)
- Precision at two temperatures, in six positions and at two levels of power reserve: 100% and 33%
- Smooth functioning when exposed to a magnetic field of 15,000 gauss and precision following exposure
- Waterproof to 200m (660 ft)
- 65-hour power reserve
The GMT Manufacture Calibre MT5450-U
The Manufacture Calibre MT5450-U, which powers the Black Bay 58 GMT illustrates the technical development process signature of TUDOR, drawing on adaptable movement architecture capable of integrating new functions rather than resorting to additional modules. A minor detail for some, but a must for watchmaking purists.
Displaying hour, minute, seconds and GMT functions, it offers the general look and feel of TUDOR Manufacture Calibres with dedicated sun laser design and bears the Master Chronometer mention on its bridges, emphasizing its distinctive performance. Its rotor is fashioned in tungsten monobloc and is openworked. It also features the distinctive laser radial grooving with sand-blasted details. Its bridges and mainplate have alternate sand-blasted and polished surfaces and laser decorations.
The build of the Manufacture Calibre MT5450-U is designed to ensure robustness and precision. To do this, the variable inertia balance wheel is maintained by a sturdy traversing bridge with two-point anchoring. It is certified as a chronometer by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC), with its performance going beyond the standards set by this independent institute. In fact, where COSC allows an average variation in the daily rate of an uncased movement of between -4 and +6 seconds and TUDOR applies a 6-second (-2/+4) variation standard on its fully assembled watches, METAS requires a Master Chronometer certified watch to run within a tolerance range of 5 seconds (0/+5). Not only is the Manufacture Calibre MT5450-U certified to be more accurate, it is also rated as anti-magnetic, making it impervious to magnetic fields below 15,000 gauss.
Another notable feature is that the power reserve of the Manufacture Calibre MT5450-U is “weekend-proof”, about 65 hours. This enables the wearer to take the watch off on a Friday evening and put it back on again on Monday morning without having to reset it.
Emblematic look
The Black Bay remains one of TUDOR’s most recognized and recognizable lines. In the Black Bay 58 GMT, the case offers the proportions of a 39mm case with a thinner profile than a 41mm Black Bay GMT. The bidirectional rotatable bezel offers very prehensible sides and its insert shows subtly curved numerals aligning with the outline of the outer ring. However, the aesthetic details don’t stop at case dimensions and bezel. The seconds hand recalls the look of the early diving watches of the brand with a lollipop design, while the satin black dial is softly radial-brushed for a very subtle shine under direct light. Ergonomics have evolved as well, with a redesigned crown, reminiscent of the curves found on the crowns of the brand’s historical technical watches, that is set flush to the middle case band so that its tube is not visible.
“Rivet-style” bracelet or rubber strap, both with “T-fit”
The “rivet-style” 3-link bracelet of the Black Bay 58 GMT model visually refers to the riveted bracelets used by TUDOR in the 1950s and 1960s. These were famous for having rivet heads visible on the side of the links. These bracelets also had a distinct stepped design, where every link, going from the clasp, was slightly larger than the previous one. These two aesthetic elements appear on today’s version, which combines modern manufacturing methods with solid links and “rivets” with laser-finished heads. This bracelet also comes with the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp, an ingenuous system for rapid length adjustment. Easy to use, requiring no tools and offering five positions, this practical touch allows wearers to carry out a fine, instant adjustment of the total length of the bracelet along an adjustment window of 8mm. The clasp features ceramic ball bearings that ensure a smooth and secure closure in addition to adding a pleasing tactile element to the action of the clasp.
A cut-to-size black rubber strap option is also available for the Black Bay 58 GMT. It comes in three sizes, fitted with the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp for the perfect fit. On the inside, it features the signature snowflake motif for added grip, and it is form-fitted specifically for this model.
The essence of Black Bay
The Black Bay line features dials inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced during the 1950s. It borrows the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as “Snowflake” from models that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue. Its shoulderless crown and the characteristics of its case are reminiscent of the first generations of TUDOR divers’ watches.
The Black Bay line is the result of the subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking. Far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic, it brings together 70 years of TUDOR dive watches, whilst at the same time being resolutely anchored in the present. It is neo-vintage in conception, yet its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness and the quality of its finishes are consistent with today’s more rigorous requirements.
