Cognac 101: how to appreciate cognac

Tired of serving old iced tea mix to your house guests? Sugary drinks are fine and dandy, but alcohol shows a lot more class. It’s never too late to build your drinks trolley. Likewise, it’s never too late to learn how to appreciate a good drink or two.

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A few years ago, we featured how to appreciate a good glass of whiskey. This time, we’re featuring France’s most premium drink next to wine—cognac.

Certified with an appellation d’origine controlee, cognac is a variety of brandy made exclusively in the town of Cognac, France. It is made from the eaux-de-vie of distilled wines. Unlike other liquors, cognac is distilled twice to produce its rich flavor and complex aromas. As a leader in cognac distillation, Martell boasts of the region’s most exclusive distillation process that produces one of the best cognacs around the world.

Distillation

Everything starts in the terroir, the parcels of land whose conditions are most conducive to producing the grapes used in cognac. Martell contains eaux-de-vie from the Borderies, Cognac’s most exclusive terroir. The Borderies grow grapes of the Ugni Blanc variety which is used mostly for cognac. Often inedible, Ugni Blanc produces a clear wine perfect for Martell’s distillation process. That’s another Martell secret: they distill only clear wines.

The wine extracted from the grapes is brought to the Gallienne distillery where it undergoes the standard double-distillation process. The first distillation transforms the wine into brouillis, a slightly cloudy substance that has an alcohol content of 28 to 33 percent. The brouillis then goes through a second distillation where eaux-de-vie is finally distilled. At its final stage, the liquid will be less than a fourth of the wine that was first introduced into the process.

The transparent liquid is stored in Martell’s fine-grain oak barrels. Whereas most cognac distillers will use coarse-grain barrels, Martell uses fine-grain Tronçais-type oak. This type produces finer cognac, as opposed to the coarse-grain’s strong woody notes. The minimum time for ageing the cognac is two years. Age varies as Martell still has eaux-de-vie that has been ageing for decades. Ultimately, it will be the cellar master’s discretion as to when the cognac is ready to be blended into the final product.

The final stage in cognac’s journey is blending. When the cellar master deems a batch of eaux-de-vie worthy of being blended into what we know as Martell cognac, he will blend it along with other eaux-de-vie to produce the complex flavor distinct only to Martell. It takes an experienced palate to repeatedly reproduce the same aromatic flavor that Jean Martell created centuries ago.

Types of cognac

Martell’s array of cognacs is highlighted by three main varieties: VSOP, XO, and Cordon Bleu.

VSOP is the youngest of the three, but its age doesn’t betray its quality. VSOP stands for Very Superior Old Pale. It is highlighted by candied fruit notes with a pleasant supple and mellow feel with a full, round body. This is best enjoyed neat, on the rocks, or with as a cocktail.

XO, on the other hand, stands for Extra Old. As the name implies, it is made from old eaux-de-vie. It has a stronger flavor with fig and walnut notes. It’s round and fruity on the palate, followed by the characteristic strength and finesse of Grande Champagne eaux-de-vie. It can be enjoyed neat or with a splash of water to bring out the flavor.

Finally, the legendary Cordon Bleu is the perfect emblem of the Martell style, crafted specifically by Edouard Martell himself. Its Borderies-sourced eaux-de-vie has a pleasingly long finish with fruity and spicy notes of plum, candied orange, and cinnamon. Cordon Bleu is best enjoyed neat, on the rocks, or with a little bit of water.

Enjoying cognac like a pro

The proper way of appreciating cognac engages three of your senses—sight, smell, and taste. First, glance at the gleaming, amber color of the cognac. Smell the first notes released from pouring the cognac into the glass. Swirl it around to oxidize it and to release the secondary notes. Gently taste the first sip, savoring every note. Roll it around in your mouth for a better feel of the texture.