A Star Is Reborn
Some watches mark the passage of time. Others change the course of history.
In 2026, Oris celebrates one of the most significant milestones in its 122-year history with the introduction of the Oris Star Edition, a faithful revival of the groundbreaking timepiece that symbolized the company’s liberation from restrictive industry regulations and ushered in a new era of innovation.
The launch commemorates two landmark anniversaries: the 60th anniversary of the first Oris lever escapement watch and the events that forever altered the trajectory of both Oris and Swiss watchmaking.
More than a nostalgic reissue, the Oris Star Edition is a tribute to perseverance, independence, and the pioneering spirit that continues to define the Hölstein-based watchmaker.
The Hero Behind the Revolution
To fully appreciate the significance of the new Star Edition, one must first understand the extraordinary story behind its genesis.
Throughout much of the mid-20th century, Swiss watchmakers operated under the Swiss Watch Statute, a set of regulations introduced in the 1930s amid the economic turmoil of the Great Depression. Intended to stabilize the industry, the legislation eventually evolved into a restrictive framework that limited competition and innovation.
For Oris, the consequences were particularly severe. The company was prohibited from manufacturing the more accurate lever escapement movements used by many of its competitors and was instead confined to producing less sophisticated pin-lever calibers.
Recognizing the limitations imposed by the statute, Oris hired a young lawyer named Dr. Rolf Portmann in 1956 and tasked him with a seemingly impossible mission: overturn the law.
For nearly a decade, Portmann battled the powerful Swiss watch establishment, often referred to as the “Swiss Watch Cartel.” His determination ultimately prevailed in 1965 when the statute was abolished, freeing Oris to innovate and compete on equal footing.
The victory represented far more than a legal triumph. It restored Oris’ independence and secured its future as a manufacturer capable of developing high-quality mechanical watches.
Just one year later, the company unveiled the original Oris Star, its first watch powered by an in-house lever escapement movement.
Portmann’s influence would continue to shape the brand for decades. In 1982, together with Ulrich W. Herzog, he helped orchestrate a management buyout that preserved Oris’ independence during another challenging chapter in Swiss watchmaking history. Today, now in his nineties, he remains Honorary Chairman of Oris.
As renowned watch historian Gisbert L. Brunner aptly observed, without Dr. Portmann’s tireless efforts, the Swiss Watch Statute might have remained in force, fundamentally altering the course of Swiss mechanical watchmaking.
The Oris Star Edition stands as a tribute to that remarkable legacy.
A Design Born of a New Era
When the original Oris Star debuted in 1966, the world was changing rapidly.
Traditional notions of luxury were evolving. Watches no longer had to conform to conservative designs defined by round cases and precious metals. The optimism of the Space Age, coupled with shifting cultural attitudes, inspired a fresh design language that embraced modernity and individuality.
The Oris Star embodied that transformation.
Its distinctive barrel-shaped case, sleek proportions, and minimalist dial reflected the modernist aesthetic of the era while signaling a bold new direction for the brand. It was both a technological statement and a fashion-forward accessory, capturing the spirit of a generation eager to break free from convention.
Six decades later, the new Oris Star Edition faithfully recreates that pioneering design.
Introduced at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, the watch retains the original’s elegant barrel-shaped silhouette, measuring a compact and highly wearable 35 mm. Integrated lugs flow seamlessly into the case, preserving the clean lines that made the original so distinctive.
The silver dial embraces vintage simplicity with applied baton hour markers, square-tipped hands, and period-correct typography. The inscriptions “Star,” “Automatic,” and “26 Jewels” proudly evoke the styling cues of the 1960s, while an asymmetrical date window at three o’clock adds visual character. Super-LumiNova is used on the hands and markers for easy night-time legibility.
Perhaps the most charming detail is the use of a plexi-crystal, a deliberate nod to the original watch that enhances its nostalgic appeal and warm vintage character.
Completing the look is a classic pin-buckled black leather strap that underscores the watch’s understated elegance.
Vintage Soul, Modern Reliability
While its exterior remains faithful to the past, the Oris Star Edition benefits from contemporary mechanical engineering.
Powering the watch is Oris Calibre 733, a Swiss-made automatic movement offering a 41-hour power reserve. The movement features central hours, minutes and seconds, an instantaneous date display, date corrector, fine timing device, and stop-seconds functionality for precise time setting.
The stainless-steel case back is engraved with the historic Oris Shield crest used during the 1960s, further strengthening the connection to the watch’s heritage.
Despite its vintage inspiration, the watch remains practical for modern wear, featuring a screw-in security crown and water resistance rated to 5 bar.
Importantly, Oris has chosen not to limit production. Rather than creating an exclusive collector’s piece, the company has ensured that enthusiasts can experience this historic design as part of its regular collection when it arrives in boutiques in May.
More Than a Reissue
At once restrained and expressive, utilitarian and sophisticated, the Oris Star Edition captures the essence of what has always made Oris unique: independence, authenticity, and a relentless commitment to mechanical watchmaking.
Sixty years after the original Star signaled a new beginning, its modern successor shines just as brightly—an enduring symbol of freedom, innovation, and the courage to challenge the status quo.
